Should You Boulder With A Helmet

To helmet, or not to helmet?

Not only have we gone off our personal experience, but we’ve done our own research too.

And while there is no guidebook on right or wrong, there are definitely unwritten rules to follow when it comes to bouldering and helmet

So, to answer your question in short:

You should always wear a helmet when bouldering outdoors, but it isn’t necessary when climbing indoors. Ultimately, it depends on where you’re bouldering and the types of climbs as opposed to the actual sport.

You may wonder why this is?

The predominant reason boulderers wear helmets is to protect themselves from loose rocks. And while there’s a big risk when outdoor climbing, there isn’t in an indoor gym. This is because all the rocks are screw-tight, so nothing can drop on your skull!

This is the main reason, but there are a few others too:

  • Outdoor rocks are naturally formed which are sharp and dense, so if you fall the consequences are severe. Whereas indoor rocks are curved and softer, so won’t cause as much damage.

  • Outdoor climbs tend to be significantly taller than indoor ones.

  • Indoor gyms are always equipt with crash mats to cushion your landing, but outdoor climbs aren’t.

What’s It Like In Reality

It’s more than likely you knew the answer, you just wanted some reassurance. And while this is textbook knowledge, is this put into practice on the crags?

We’ve been to climbing sites where people wear a beanie and a vest for “safety”, and others where every safety precaution is taken.

It’s fair to say inconsistency is everywhere.

What most climbers, especially beginners, are concerned about is whether will they be judged/looked at as funny for wearing a helmet.

Absolutely Not.

Historically, they weren’t worn a lot. But, the ‘uncoolness’ has certainly worn off and it’s becoming more and more common to see climbers take their safety precautions.

In fact, other climbers now judge you for not wearing one, as opposed to wearing one.

Nonetheless, this shouldn’t bother you, because truthfully it doesn’t bother anyone else.

Nobody has ever regretted wearing a helmet, but many have regretted not putting one on. Take this horror story of Beth Rodden for example…

  • Beth Rodden, one of the best female climbers, was ascending Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral Rock.

  • She planted her foot down and slipped on polished granite.

  • This flipped her upside down and she accelerated down the rock.

  • She then came to a sudden stop, when she crashed into a rock at 23mph.

  • She was then diagnosed with a concussion.

Unfortunately, there are a countless number of times these events occur. And, a helmet is always the best chance you have of escaping uninjured.

The moral of the story?

Safety first, always wear a helmet.

When Should You Wear A Helmet When Bouldering

So far, we’ve learned helmets are critical when outdoor bouldering, but not so much indoor. The question to follow is, at which points during an outdoor boulder should you wear a helmet?

When outdoor climbing, a helmet is necessary at all times. Regardless of whether you’re climbing, watching someone else, or walking between crags, you’re always at risk of a rock falling on your head. Hence, you shouldn’t take the helmet off.

Some climbers fall into bad habits similar to the below:

  • Wearing it only when climbing.

  • Only wear it when walking between routes.

  • Only wear it when they are watching another climber. 

Look, we get it. Sometimes you want to give your hair some air. And that’s absolutely okay! But, you shouldn’t make a routine of taking your helmet on and off.

Essentially, what we’re saying is to just leave it on.

The story we mention above is another real-life example of this.

Beth Rodden had never had an injury before, and had done a lot more difficult climbs. The last thing she would expect is to fall and get a concussion. Yet she did.

What Happens If You Don’t Wear A Helmet When Bouldering

What are some of the risks of not bouldering with a helmet?

Mild

Description: If a small pebble dropped from a few inches above your head, you’re lucky. This is as light as the injuries get.

Symptoms: You’ll most likely have a headache and bruising, and depending on the shape of the stone, you could start bleeding too.

Action and Recovery: You should ice the injury as soon as possible, but it is okay to carry on climbing, as long as you aren’t feeling dizzy or nauseous. Furthermore, the injury should heal within a week or two.

Severe

Description: The type of severe injuries that occur when bouldering vary. It could be a rock drop on top of your head at speed, or you fall head first. Both of which are severe without a helmet.

Symptoms: These types of injuries result in a lot more serious symptoms, for example, internal/ external bleeding, falling unconscious, or skull fractures.

Action and Recovery: It’s essential to instantly stop bouldering and seek medical advice as soon as possible. Recovery can vary from a few months to a few years depending on how badly you’re injured.

Life Threatening

Description: Unfortunately, life-threatening injuries in bouldering aren’t as uncommon as you may think. Situations such as falling to the floor at speed, or big rocks dropping on your head can happen to anyone – it’s just more of a hazard for those not wearing a helmet.

Symptoms: Brain damage, concussions, or fatal.

Action and Recover: Once again, seek medical support as soon as possible. Recovery does depend on the injury, but as mentioned it may cost your life.

via GIPHY

What Type Of Helmet Should You Wear When Bouldering

Can you use your old cycling helmet for bouldering?

No!

Boulderers have specific helmets that match the conditions and hazards they face on a climb. We recommend shelled foam helmets since they are lightweight and breathable – but also offer sufficient protection for bouldering.

A shelled foam helmet has two parts to it:

  • A thick layer of polystyrene/polypropylene foam on the inside.
  • A thin polycarbonate (plastic) shell on the outside.

The polycarbonate plastic is designed to withstand “softer impact” such as small stones or low momentum falls. Essentially anything that will cause a small scratch. Nonetheless, it’s a very durable material.

The polystyrene/polypropylene (depending on what the helmets are made from) is designed for much more intense, harder-impact falls. However, they aren’t as resilient, for example, polystyrene can only have one major fall before you must retire the helmet and replace it. This will usually be shown by a crack or break after a hard hit.

The other major differences between a polystyrene and a polypropylene foam helmet are as follows:

FactorPolystyrene (EPS)Polypropylene (EPP)
CostCheap.Expensive.
Number of Blows Before It Breaks1.Multiple – but not recommended.
Damage To EnvironmentNot recyclable.Can be recycled.
Maximum ImpactHigher because it’s denser.Lower because it’s less dense.
Need For PolycarbonateEssential.Not essential for soft impacts, but can still be present for aesthetic and added protection.
Source

They’ll look something like the below:

Unlike other activities, climbing helmets cushion you from the side, as well as the top. So it protects you if you fall or bash your head against the wall.

Furthermore, they’re also well-vented and extremely light making them perfect for portability and comfortability.

It’s these small safety features which are why you can’t just use any helmet. Especially not old ones in your garage!

Ultimately, it’s your decision of which helmet you prefer/ can afford. But, make sure you pick one purposefully designed for climbing to make the most out of it.

What Other Safety Gear Do You Need When Bouldering

When bouldering, everyone can go over the top and bring items they “think” they need but really don’t.

You want to travel light, so only bring the essentials.

So, to make your lives easier, we have designed your own bouldering checklist.

Download the file, work your way through it, and get climbing…

But most importantly – stay safe guys!

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