Can You Use The Holes In Bouldering
Have you ever seen the holes drilled into the bouldering/climbing wall?
When I first went climbing I was confused as to what they are, who uses them, and if it’s part of the climb. In fact, while it was a tight fit I could fit my fingers inside them and use them.
But, now I have immense more experience, I now know this isn’t their intended purpose.
If you follow the rule book, you should avoid bolt holes during every climb. This is because they aren’t rocks, but more imperfections on the wall. However, in reality, some climbers use them during difficult parts of their route or when casually practicing.
I like to use the bolt holes for route setting. I don’t put my thumbs or fingers in them; instead, I use them to visualize and plan my ascend.
So, if you can’t use them, why are they there at all? Plus, are there consequences for using them? Let me tell you…
What Are The Purpose Of The Holes On A Climbing Wall
The first thing I understood is the ‘holes’ are formally known as bolt holes and their purpose is to attach artificial rocks to the walls.
However, even when a route is completed, I still saw loads of bolt holes without a dedicated rock screwed into them. Hence, the holes you see on a climbing wall.
So, I asked the gym owner, and he told me this
“The reason there are so many holes is to allow route variety.” The gym owner can unscrew the rocks and put them in different positions and locations across the wall, creating a new route for the climber. Every time he resets the route, a different set of holes exposes the climbers.
He mentioned he does this to keep his climbs new and exciting. Otherwise, his customers will get bored of repeatedly doing the same route.
My gym owner changes his routes weekly; however, it depends on each gym.
How Using Bolt Holes Can Damage The Climbing Wall
When I asked my gym owner if he was okay with me using the bolt holes, I was surprised by his response:
He explained, “Due to their miniature size, most climbers can’t hold their weight with them, but instead use it as support or balance. In this scenario, it won’t do a great deal of structural damage, but it may scratch some paint or texture off the wall.”
I then followed up by asking him if he had witnessed any climbers who could fit their fingers in between the bolt holes. And if so, what damage it can cause? He replied with:
“If you occasionally use them, it’s unlikely to do any noticeable damage; however, if you’re repeatedly using the same bolt holes, it may erode the inside part of the wall and make it difficult to screw in any rocks.” Ultimately it depends on the frequency they’re used and the material of the wall.
Why Are Some Bolt Holes Damaged
I don’t know about you, but I’ve seen hundreds of damaged bolt holes. So, the last question I asked my gym owner is what causes this.
“Using bolt holes as intended shouldn’t cause major problems to the wall or the rocks. If you screw them correctly, they go in effortlessly and fit tight. Nonetheless, long-term usage could see some erosion due to friction and general use.”
And while I massively appreciated his answer it still didn’t scratch my itch on why I see so many damaged ones. As a result, I took it up on myself to do some research, and here’s what I found.
Only when someone screws the rock onto the wall inaccurately will it cause catastrophic damage. For example, screwing the rock at an angle, leaving the rock too lose, etc. This causes the bolt to dig into the wall or, worse, the climber.
Depending how incorrectly the screw is tightened influences the damage to the wall. If the screw has caused chunks to fall out of the wall, the bolt hole won’t be useable, and you may have to replace the whole wall (from a health and safety standpoint.)
When Can You Use Bolt Holes During A Climb
Climbing gyms won’t promote the use of bolt holes during a climb; nonetheless, it’s unlikely they’ll punish you for using them either.
As mentioned above, I use the bolt holes to plan my route; but, there are other sensible ways too. Here are the main ones I have witnessed:
- During A Casual Climb.
Whether you’re practicing, socializing, or exercising, you’re free to climb however you like. It is up to you to make the decision and consider if it’s “cheating” or not. - During Friendly Competitions.
For example, you and your friends compete in a timed climb. During these events, participants set the rules as it’s an informal competition made for fun. As long as you establish whether or not to use the bolt holes, you’ll know if it’s allowed. - The Benefit Of Safety.
Sometimes it’s worth holding inside a bolt hole for extra support and balance. This isn’t to say you should always grip a bolt hole before falling, but instead, when you feel unstable and in an awkward position.
When Can’t You Use Bolt Holes During A Climb
The situations where you can’t use the bolt holes include:
- Formal Climbing Competitions.
Using the bolt holes will most likely lead to disqualification because you’re breaking the rules; however, consequences vary depending on each competition. Climbing competitions will usually outline the rules before the event to make you aware of what is and isn’t legal. - Gym’s Ban Using Them.
As mentioned, most gyms are unbothered by you using them; however, there are a few cases where the gyms don’t want you using them. This could be for numerous reasons, such as some bolt holes that could cut fingers; there could be oil inside, or health and safety. In this scenario, it’s best to avoid using them and respect the request of the gym.
FAQ’s About Bolt Holes In A Climbing Wall
Why Don’t Gym Owners Hide Bolt Holes
The majority of gym owners won’t cover the holes because they’re frequently changing and replacing their routes. Therefore it wouldn’t be productive or time-efficient to cover every empty hole as they would be swapping it next route reset.
Who Puts The Bolt Holes Into The Wall
The manufacturer will sell rock climbing walls with strategically placed holes in the gym. This means it isn’t the gym that drills holes but the supplier of the climbing walls. Therefore it’s imperative the climbing gym checks the type of screw needed to fit into the hole.
Will Bolt Holes Affect Climbing Ability
No, bolt holes won’t affect your climbing ability unless a gym has left screws in empty bolt holes. This occurs when the gym owner screws into the bolt holes but forgets to attach the rock. As well as a safety hazard, it forces you to redirect your route.
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